Like anything else that is man-made, walls in your home lose their "brand-new" look over time. Walls develop cracks and are eventually damaged as a result of accidents such as dings and smudges when you move objects around your home. Left uncared for, these problems only become worse and could eventually result in structural damage and expensive repairs.
Like anything else that is man-made, walls in your home lose their "brand-new" look over time. Walls develop cracks and are eventually damaged as a result of accidents such as dings and smudges when you move objects around your home. Left uncared for, these problems only become worse and could eventually result in structural damage and expensive repairs.
The good news is that the average homeowner with limited experience and expertise in this area can fix most wall problems. The following article, while not a comprehensive treatment of the subject, will arm you with the basic techniques to successfully repair and rehabilitate wall problems.
Following are some terms that will be helpful in communicating with personnel at hardware stores and home centers, etc:
Joist: This is simply a piece of lumber, positioned horizontally that is used to support a ceiling or a floor. Joists are referred to as ceiling joists or floor joists.
Stud: Traditionally made from wood (usually 2 x 4s), wall studs used in much modern construction are sometimes metal. The purpose of the wall stud is to frame out a room, provide support for the ceiling and provide a surface to attach your wall covering.
Joint Compound: A creamy substance that can be purchased pre-mixed or in powder form which requires mixing with water. Joint compound is used to finish the wall surface and drywall joints. Using joint compound requires some practice and patience so that with proper application and light sanding the areas of the wall that need to be smooth and "invisible" will not be noticeable when the wall is finished with paint. If wallpaper is used, a smooth wall finish is also necessary to avoid lumps and bumps.
Mastic: This is an adhesive specifically manufactured for affixing tiles and paneling to a wall. Mastic comes in a variety of mixtures and you should make sure that you get the right mastic for the job that you're are tackling.
Corner Bead: These are vertical metal strips that are used at corners where the drywall meets. Corner bead is designed to let you use joint compound in a way that results in a clean corner. It will take some practice to apply the joint compound in right way so that the corner bead becomes invisible.
Insulation: Insulation is available in a wide variety of grades and densities each of which are designed for a specific application. Insulation is primarily used between the studs of outside walls exposed to the elements and is designed to restrict the amount of heat/cold that enters the living area. Some floors are also insulated. Insulation also cuts down on the noise from adjacent areas. Again, let the hardware store or home center know what you are planning to do so that they can point you to the right grade of insulation.
Vapor Barrier: Usually made from plastic or a similar material, the vapor barrier is designed to prevent moisture escaping from interior walls into exterior walls, thus preventing condensation.
Starting with Wall Repairs
The most common (and inevitable) wall flaws are the hairline cracks that typically appear above windows and doors. This occurs because, over time, the wood framing dries out and consequently shrinks pulling the drywall with it and causing cracks to appear. Sometimes these cracks result from the house settling.
The quick fix is to use spackle or joint compound to cover the crack, sanding it smooth and then repainting the affected area. If you want a long-term fix, use the pointed end of a common bottle cap/beer can opener to make the crack a little wider. When finished, use what is called adhesive-back fiber mesh wallboard tape to cover the crack.
When the wallboard tape is in place, use a 4-inch putty knife to spread a generous coat of joint compound over the tape. Smooth the joint compound as much as possible and then let it dry completely. Next, apply at least two more coats of joint compound over the area, feathering each application so that the compound blends into the wall. After the joint compound is completely dry, use fine sandpaper to make it as natural and smooth as possible. Finally, paint the surface and your wall crack repair is complete.
Since the tools used to apply joint compound will be subject to moist material, it's important to clean them thoroughly after each use or they will rust and end up in the trashcan. Wash the tools, dry them completely and then spray the metal parts with an all-purpose lubricant such as WD-40 to protect them so that they will be available for your next project.
Holes in drywall usually result from moving pictures from place to place. The easiest way to repair these small holes is to put a little joint compound on your index finger and then apply it over the hole. Immediately scrape off any excess compound with a small putty knife. As the joint compound dries, it will usually sink into the hole a bit, leaving a slight indent. Before applying more joint compound, lightly sand the area and run your fingers over the area. If you feel any difference between the repaired area and surrounding wall, you will need a second application of compound. The second application can usually be applied by putting a little joint compound on the putty knife and then applying it to the dent or dimple.
When the joint compound is completely dry, use fine or extra fine sandpaper to make the area smooth and then use a cloth to get rid of any residual compound dust. You are now ready to paint the repaired area.
Nearly every home eventually has nail pops appear. Many homeowners simply hammer the nail back in using a nail head, which is the same size as the popped nail. They position the heads together and then gently tap the pointed end of the nail until the popped nail is pushed below the surface of the drywall. They then cover the dent with spackle or joint compound in much the same way as they would a nail hole. Unfortunately, the popped nail will probably work its way out again and you will be left with the same problem.
A more permanent solution is to use wallboard screws that are threaded and consequently resist popping. Insert a 5/8-inch drywall screw about 2-inches away from the popped nail making certain that the drywall is pushed firmly against the stud. The wallboard screw should be inserted so that the head is just slightly below the level of the drywall. Hammer in the popped nail about 1/8-inch below the drywall. Insert joint compound into the dents (holes) left by the screw and the nail. After the compound is dry, paint over it. Finally, using the putty knife put several coats of spackle over the fasteners allowing each coat to dry completely. After the final coat has dried. Sand the surfaces lightly and then prime and paint the repaired areas to match the wall.
Chips that appear on the edge of a drywall or plaster surface can be easily repaired by following a few simple steps. Joint compound will be used to repair these areas. Scratch the edges of the chip slightly making sure that dust, etc. is cleaned away. Slightly dampen the area. Use a piece of flat plastic or wood against one side of the chip while applying joint compound to the other side. This will make a clean edge. After the compound is dry, add more thin coats of compound until the chipped area is flush with the wall. Be sure to sand each coat of compound. Finally, prime the area and then paint it to match the wall.
If corner metal bead is badly damaged, it's best to cut out the bead and replace it with new metal bead. Chisel the damaged bead area a few inches above and below the damage. Remove the nails holding in the damaged bead and remove it. Use tin snips to cut a new section of metal bead being careful not to flatten the bead. Be careful breaking the edges of the new section. After making certain that the replacement bead lines up with the existing bead, fasten the new piece with wallboard screws. File any roughness where the new and old bead meets. Use about three coats of joint compound on the repair with a 6-inch taping knife. Make sure the joint compound is completely dry before applying another coat. Sand each coat lightly then prime and paint the final coat to match the walls.
If flooding has damaged your walls, it may be necessary to replace entire sections of wallboard rather than attempt repairs with large patches of wallboard. If the studs are also damaged, they may also need to be replaced. When replacing studs, be certain that the studs are not supporting a floor. When in doubt, it's best to consult a qualified and licensed professional before proceeding.
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